Why should I care? I’m
not sure. I was confused by Goethe’s Farbenlehre
(Theory of Colors) before I got to page number chartreuse.
It’s just that someone in the newspaper this morning was
moaning about the colors that buildings are painted in
Naples; a “kaleidoscope of anarchy” he called it. Or maybe
it was a “stethoscope of oligarchy” —whatever, it was bad.
There is no attempt, said the whiner, to adhere to the
published and official color guidelines. Well, there is no
attempt to adhere to the published and official
traffic-code definitions of red, green, and yellow,
either, so maybe the whole city is color-blind. That city
color code for painting buildings, by the way, was
published in 1942, and, in fairness, it wasn’t that
restrictive. You could paint your house white, grey, sand,
hazel-brown, straw yellow, “ancient pink,” salmon, clear terra di Siena, or Pompeian red.
When I look around the
city, I do see a few “outlaw” shades of electric blue, but
I don’t see a lot of outrageous, garish colors, except
perhaps the church of Santa Maria delle Catene
(top photo, left). It was just redone in bright mustard.
Also, in Bagnoli, they have recycled part of the old
cement factory as a public venue and painted it “pimp
scarlet.” White is making a comeback: the 300-yard long
façade of the Albergo
dei Poveri has been restored to its original
white, and the restored Mergellina
train station is back to its gleaming white.
Pompeian red is still the default color of regal buildings
and those with regal pretensions, such as the royal palace and the Naples prefecture. The colors
of natural stone —marble, trachyte, tufa— have always been
popular, and the newer and unpainted “natural” colors of
metal are evident in many recent buildings— the Civic Center, for example.