entry Nov 2007, entry
2 - Aug 2018
There are two entries here. One is the
original article, directly below.
Number 2 is a related item about
EUR, the section of Rome meant to open in 1942.
The Architecture of Fascism
in Naples
Provincial Admin. building
(1936.
 |
Mostra d’Oltremare
(1940. Var. architects, incl.
M. Canino,
S. F. Speziale, V. Amicarelli)

|
The best definition I
can come up with for the “Architecture of Fascism in Naples”
is “buildings put up in Naples in the 1920s and 1930s.”
That, I realize, would be cheating my way around many
definitions. With apologies, I am confused by the terms of
20th-century architecture: Bauhaus, International style, Art
Deco, Constructivism, Organicism, Modernism, Functionalism,
Futurism, etc.—and I have barely scratched the façade. (Most
of those styles, by the way, dropped you down the elevator
shaft if you tried to put so much as even one ornamental
scratch on their façades!) One of the most confusing terms
is the one given to much architecture in Italy in the 1920s
and 1930s: Fascist Rationalism. It seems to combine two
irreconcilable terms.
First: Fascist. Mussolini’s call in the 1920s for a
“Fascist style” produced many buildings in Italy inspired by
past architectural glories. Among these were the “Imperial”
style with Roman features such as columns and façades
adorned with eagles; the “Palladian” style, with arcades,
porticoes and arches without ornamentation; and the
“Baroque” (endearingly called by the diminutive, barochetto) with
ridiculous amounts of ornamentation dripping off the
facades. All of that is an historical approach to
architecture: using the past, as Mussolini said, “…to serve
as a source of training and encouragement for the
advancement of the aims of the nation.” You expect an
architectural corollary; that is, Fascist Italy spent much
of the 1920s excavating imperial Rome—the Theater of
Marcellus, the Trajan Forum, the forum of Caesar, the forums
of Augustus and Nerva. All these were opened and seen for
the first time in 1500 years. The glorious past had been
rediscovered; the new architecture should somehow reflect
that.
ANMIG
(1938-40. Camillo Guerra)
 |
Banca
Nazionale del Lavoro (1938. A.
Brasini)
 |
Second: Rationalism, the
non-historical approach. Modern architecture was dedicated
to the concept that form followed function, that
ornamentation was a crime, and that—in Le Corbusier’s words—
“a house is a machine for living." Rationalism meant science
and reason, not history. How, then, to have a building that
is both (1) historical and (2) rational, meaning that it
should fit the functional "machine" aesthetic of the new
architecture? Welcome to Fascist Rationalism.
Some who write about the conflict of those two
extremes in Italian architecture say that the modern school
lost out to the historical school—termed “stripped
Classicism”—by the early 1930s; thus, you might expect
monolithic and useless temples erected to the power of the
state. Many of the buildings in Naples from the 1930s,
however, do not bear that out. Yes, they are obviously
“Classical” (though “stripped” of ornamentation); yet,
they are functional.
Bank
of Naples (1940. M. Piacentini)
 |
Istituto
nazionale delle Assicurazioni (1938. M. Canino)
 |
“Rationalist Row,” if
you will, in Naples centers on Piazza Matteotti. There you
have the main post office (see
that link for interior photos); it looks like a marble and
glass (and very functional) bee-hive. Indeed, the façade is
a giant parabola with rows of small practical windows,
behind which sat small practical drones who stared out at
New Rome while they cheerfully misdirected your letters. But
the interior has so much non-functional wasted imperial
space that you could float your blimp in there while you buy
stamps. One should note that the architects of the post
office went to great ends to preserve an important bit of
Neapolitan past by actually incorporating the courtyard of
the old Mount of Olives monastery into the new structure
(photo, below, right).
Nearby is the Provincial Administration building,
called one of the outstanding examples of Rationalist
architecture in Italy (photo, top of page, left). Across the
street is the ANMIG (Wounded War Veterans) building; up at
the corner is the Banca
Nazionale del Lavoro and one block away is the Istituto nazionale delle
assicurazioni (National Insurance Building).
Elsewhere there are other examples: the passenger terminal
at the port, the Bank of Naples on via Toledo (aka via Roma)
and outside of Naples, in Fuorigrotta, the Mostra
d’Oltremare (Overseas Fair Grounds). All of
those sites were finished between 1935-40. Holdovers from
the 1920s in Naples include the Cardarelli
hospital—a weird mixture of a neo-Classical façade and
a futuristic interior—and the Mergellina
train station, solid barochetto, where the ornamentation is so
syrupy that trains have been known to stick to the tracks.
Port of
Naples passenger terminal (1936. C. Bazzani)
 |
Post Office (1936. G.
Vaccaro and G. Franzi)

|
passenger
terminal interior

|
passenger
terminal interior

|
Bibliography:
- Belfiore,
P. and B.
Gravagnuolo. Napoli—Architettura e
urbanistica del Novecento. Laterza. 1994. ISBN
8842044555
- Cortesi,
A. “Rome Architects Scrap Old Ideas.” New
York Times,
October 7, 1934.
- Doordan,
D. P. “The Political Content in Italian Architecture
during the Fascist Era” in Art
Journal, Vol. 43, No.2, (Summer
1983).
- Ghirardo,
D. “Italian Architects and Fascist Politics” in
Journal
of the Society of Architectural Historians, Vol. 39, No. 2. (May,
1980).
- Millon,
H. “The Role of Architecture in Fascist Italy” in
Journal
of the Society of Architectural Historians, Vol. 24, No. 1. (Mar.,
1965).
- Monotti,
Francesco. “Architecture in Italy.” New
York Times,
November 1, 1931.
- Scolari,
Margaret. “In the Triennale, International Style
Triumphs.” New York Times, August 6, 1933.
(The inscription below the title at the top of this page
is on the post office. Such inscriptions typically
included the standard date as well as the "Era Fascista"
date, measured from the founding of the "new
empire"— that is, in this case, 14
years after Mussolini's march on Rome.)
- - -
- - - - - - -
- -
added Aug 2018
2. EUR/E42
- The Other
Exhibit - The
one that Didn't
Make It

At
least the Overseas Fair Grounds in Naples, the Mostra,
(described above) got off the ground — barely. But it did open on time and had
a successful, if very short, run before WWII spoiled
the fun. The Mostra was exactly what it claimed to be: a
boisterous bit of Fascist Italy beating her breast
about her African colonies. It was, however, puny
compared to the never-finished Mother of all Fascist
Breast Beaters that was to be New Rome. That would be
EUR, (pronounced in
two syllables — a long A + oor, with the oo
as in 'food'. Tack on an r of your
choosing). It is now a residential and business
district in Rome, south of
the city center. The area was originally chosen in
1930s as the site for what was to be the 1942
exposition that Benito Mussolini
planned to open to celebrate twenty years of
Fascism. The letters EUR stand for Esposizione
Universale Roma.The
project was originally called E42 for the
year in which the exhibition was to be held. EUR
was also designed to direct the expansion of the city
towards the south-west and the sea, and to be a new
city center for Rome, which was to have looked like
the model in the image (above, left). Very few of
those buildings got built, and the beautiful
Saarinen-looking arch in the spooky poster didn't
get built, either. (I don't know if Saarinen copied
it from Adalberto Libera, the EUR architect who
designed it, either. You'd have to ask Eero
Saarinen, himself, but he's dead.) Obviously the
planned exhibition never
took place. Wars really mess with you.
The Palazzo della Civiltà
italiana, nicknamed
the Square Colosseum.
The facade has 54 arches.
The building is one of the most
iconic of the
original architectural intent of
EUR. Architects:
G. Guerrini, E. Lapadula, and M. Romano.
So
today EUR really is partially a museum complex, partially a
conglomeration of businesses, residential buildings,
and meeting halls, all laid over the original plans for a Rome of the
Fascist future. That, of course, never happened, but
the place never stopped growing. The first meetings were not even held
until well after the end of WWII, in the 1950s, but
the idea of Rationalist Fascist architecture (see
first item on this page, above) continued on, as it did in Naples,
such that it is not easy to tell which building is
pre-war and which is post. There is a delightfully chaotic continuity to
it all. It is just plain fun to walk around, like
drifting in and out of a time machine, a mammoth
exhibit of futuristic
architecture (even today) for a future that never
happened. EUR was upgraded significantly in
preparation for its use in the 1960 Olympic games,
and the foundations were laid for the Museum complex
that it has, at least partially, become. Recently,
large businesses and international organizations
from other European nations have moved in, new
buildings have grown up, and it remains a
fascinating place to visit. Here is a view of the
lake, today:
To the extent that it is now also a working museum
complex, that, too, is impressive.
Case in point:
The National Museum of the Arts and
Popular Traditions. If I had one day to go
anywhere in Italy —
well, I'd stay home — but
IF... I'd go to Rome, EUR, and probably to this
place. MNATP
stands for Museo nazionale delle arti e tradizioni
popolari (National Museum of the Arts and
Popular Traditions) (image, left). It has recently been subsumed
under an umbrella organization called the Museo
delle Civiltà (Museum of Civilizations), a multi-museum complex that
includes, besides itself, the National Museum of
Ethnographic Prehistory, the National Museum of the High Middle Ages, and the
National Museum of Oriental Art. (That last one is
still in its historic location, the Palazzo Brancaccio. The others are
all located on the premises of EUR.
It is
arranged by themes: Earth and her resources, Living and
dwelling, Rituals,
Festivals and Ceremonies. The displays cover all of
Italy, which is why if I had just one day...
Spread over two floors and a large
number of display halls, there are displays for means of
transport used by farmers and shepherds, shoulder-borne floats and
spires used in religious processions, period
photographic displays, arrays of implements used in all phases of
agriculture, displays of the way of life of shepherds
including the seasonal pastoral migrations known as the tramsumanza, and harnesses and
saddles used by beasts of burden. There is hunting
equipment and everything about how they fished in the old days in the
sea, lakes and rivers, even a display of model sailboats
and one for the
very special Venetian gondola. The old-time merchants,
barbers, tobacco vendors, pharmacists, goldsmiths, and
the craftsmen such
as carpenters and smiths, they're all there. And the
home — household, domestic life
and traditional architecture (including household religious items) and
even the most exotic traditional dwellings in all of
Italy, the Trulli. And toys,
rites of passage,
manger scenes and marriage ceremonies. It's not finished
— you have to
see the musical instruments from all over Italy.
Come back here. OK, go see the
Colosseum. Big deal. Then, come back here.
[The bibliography (above) for item 1 has some
English-language sources that are relevant to this
entry.]
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