The
Gauro Volcanic Crater (with Mt.
Barbaro & Mt.
Sant'Angelo)

The area known as
the Campi Flegrei (Flegrean Fields) is a welter
of extinct volcanoes, lakes, tufa outcroppings, sulfur
springs and fumaroles; it is all directly inland from the
Bay of Pozzuoli. All geological features within the Campi
are still bounded by the remnant rim of the massive
Campanian Ignimbrite explosion —alias the Archiflegrean Caldera collapse
—of some 40,000 years ago. (That caldera is the area
bounded by the broken red line in the image on the right.
Also see the separate entry on the Campi
Flegrei.) All the geological features within
the original rim are, chronologically "secondary"; that
is, they formed thousands of years after the original
ignimbrite event. Within the Campi Flegrei there is an
extinct volcano named Gauro (also Mt. Gauro) just to the
NE of Lake Averno (the crater, slightly elongated and
oriented N-S, is visible in the image just to the left of
the town of S. Vito); on the southern part of the rim of
that crater, there is a peak, named separately as Mt.
Barbaro; at 342 meters (c.1100 feet) it is the highest
point of the Campi Flegrei. (It is the peak on the right
in the top photo, taken from Lake Averno. On the left, on
the other side of the "saddle," is another section of the
Gauro crater, also named separately, Mt. Sant'Angelo.)
The name "Gauro"
(meaning "majestic) was given to the crater by the Greeks
when they settled in this part of the Mediterranean, first
on the island of Ischia,
right across the water from the Bay of Pozzuoli (just off
the lower left portion of this image), and then on the
mainland at Cuma, just a short
distance away. The crater is rich in items of geological
and historical interest. There are remnants of medieval
structures as well as cisterns used by the Romans,
indicating that the area was of agricultural importance in
ancient times. There are also numerous caves in the yellow
tufa rock to spelunk around in. (Try not to disturb the
bats!) The very dark caves, for the most part collapsed,
were said to contain priceless treasures of the mysterious
inhabitants of an underground city, the mythical abode of
the Cimmerians mentioned by the Greek geographer, Strabo;
explorers have been looking for the entrance ever since.
Indeed, a number of medieval texts speak of such a city
and, as recounted in the 13th-century document, Pathenopean Chronicles, Virgil himself is
said to have come by his superhuman powers in this place.
It is there that he and his disciple, Filomeno, discovered
the burial site of the centaur, Chiron, and "removed from
beneath his head a book that instructed them in necromancy
and other sciences..." Aside from the mythology,
many points along the rim offer a spectacular panorama of
the bay.

From 1776, a
painting of the Gauro crater by Pietro Fabris
In military history, the Battle of Mount Gaurus of
343 BC is of some interest: it was the first clash between
the up-and-coming Romans and their fierce rivals, the Samnites. Although the precise
details of this first battle are hazy, most historians
chalk it up as at least a modest victory for the Romans,
but the so-called "Samnite Wars" see-sawed back and forth
for centuries (see the above Samnite link for details).
Some time later in the second Punic War (215 BC),
Hannibal, in his invasion of the Italian peninsula,
decided to stop at Mt. Gauro to consult the sibyl on just
how to proceed against the Romans. No one seems to know if
this was the famous sibyl of Cuma
or a separate secret Cimmerian
sibyl. Also, one of the slopes of Monte Barbaro is called
the Mount of Christ or Mount of the Saviour. There is a
church (now in ruins), around which arose the medieval
legend, recounted by Neapolitan historian Scipione Mazzella (in the late
1500s), that here, near Lake Averno, is where
Christ, after his death descended into Hell to save the
souls of the Holy Fathers in limbo.
Modern details include
the fact that the floor of the extinct Gauro crater has
been for some decades a recreational facility of the US
Navy, named Carney Park. There is a great swimming pool
and 9-hole golf course, but even if you can say "separate
secret Cimmerian sibyl" five times really fast, you're not
getting in there without an ID card. Also, our merry
prankster friends at Napoli Underground ran an April Fool's gag a while back about
the place.
sources:
I am indebted to Selene Salvi and Daniela Marra for their
article, La Montagna Sacra (The Sacred Mountain),
which
appeared on the
website of Napoli Underground. (That website no longer exists. jm . Oct.
2021)
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