postcard
# 19 - I know a lot of old-timers in
Naples who will look at this card and say, "You
know, I remember that station. What a shame they
tore it down." Some problem on the date -
June 19, 1903 (9?). This is the old main train station
set in the middle of Piazza Garibaldi. You are looking
east. Mt. Vesuvius is a little to the right, out of
the picture.
At the time of the unification of Italy (1861),
Naples had two train stations, set side by side on via
dei Fossi, now known as Corso Garibaldi. (That
is about 400 meters behind and to the right of where
this photo was taken, approximately where the current Naples
terminus is of the narrow-gauge Circumvesuviana
railway.) One was owned and operated by the Bayard
Society (builders of the first
train in Italy some years earlier) and was
the Naples terminus for trains directed to
Salerno; the other belonged to the Regia Society
and ran trains to Rome.
The decision was made to
build a new main station, the one in this
photo.The architect was Errico (alias Enrico) Alvino; the chief
engineer was Paul Amilhan. The plan was to build a
neo-Renaissance structure, and it was certainly
that! (Take a second to look at it. I, too, am
sorry they tore it down.) It opened to traffic on
May 7, 1867 and was completely finished in 1869.
There were six tracks. The main façade faced west
onto Piazza Garibaldi, and there were gardens in
front. The remarkable statue/fountain
of the siren, Parthenope, by Buccino and Jerace was
installed within the station in 1869 (and moved to
its current location, Piazza San Nazzarro, in
1924.) In the meantime, the square was enlarged
and the large monument to Garibaldi was installed
at the west end in 1904.
The train station quickly became inadequate
for Naples of the 1920s, so they opened up the
interior by moving the platforms back quite a ways
and adding new tracks. This essentially moved the
"working" station to the east, away from the façade and center of the square. Today's
newer station maintains that configuration; the
entrance practically is the east side of
Piazza Garibaldi. The center is taken up by
traffic lanes and entrances to the subterranean
caverns beneath the square; that is, there is now
a commercial city down there. That, too, is an
idea that started in the 1920s. At the same time
as they were expanding the train station you see
here, below the square they built an
underground station to be the eastern terminus of
the new underground metro train line coming from
the west, from the new Mergellina
train station, which opened in October of
1927. The station at Mergellina was part of a
general plan to develop the western side of the
city, Chiaia and Mergellina, site of new buildings
and hotels, into a fashionable residential area.
So you now had a new train line to and from Rome;
instead of leaving from or arriving at the main
station in the east, you could use the Mergellina
station. It was so successful that it took some of
the pressure off the main station at Piazza
Garibaldi, and it also provided quick service
between Mergellina and the main station by way of
the underground line. (Today, that situation has
been reversed. Trains no longer leave from
Mergellina to Rome. The new hi-speed super-trains
leave from the main station at Piazza Garibaldi
and make the run to Rome in just over one hour if
they don't fly off the tracks. These
days, from Mergellina it's only two metro stop to
get into the city.
The old station in the
postcard was heavily bombed in WWII. Finally, in
1954 they decided to eliminate the structure
completely. They did it in rather piecemeal
fashion, first commissioning a team of architects
to build a new passenger terminal behind it,
providing access to essentially the same tracks
that the old station used. When the time came
(1960), they demolished the old station. They
wanted to save the neo-Renaissance facade, but
that was impractical. It all came down. It had had
a good run, though —almost a century.