NYT Dec.
26, 1890
DARK NAPLES LAID BEAR
Where King Cholera in 1884 Reaped a Fine Harvest
King Humbert’s Visit and his Decree to disembowel the
region — What has been done — Acres of slums that
remain.
(a reprint from the London Globe)
1896. Via S. Lucia on the left before
the construction
of new hotels and new seaside road that
now occupy
the area on the right.
This photo was not part of the original
article.
Visitors
to Naples during the next few years are advised
by the London Globe to “take earnest note of the
aspect of the city. In times to come they will have to
regard themselves as privileged persons. The city is
being reformed out of its old unsanitary ways; it is
being leveled to enable it to rise again as fair as
modern builders subject to their own contract prices
can afford to make it. Scores of the dark, stinking,
and slimey alleys, up and down which one has stumbled
in terror for one’s pocket amid debris of rotten
vegetables, offal, egg shells, fish bones, and the
other indescribable foulnesses of the various vicoli
and gradelli are being systematically
expunged.
"Eminently picturesque were these ancient slums in
their gloom and parti-colored dirt, and as eminently
pestilential. It was here in 1884 that King Cholera
reaped a fine harvest among the hapless but
light-hearted Neapolitans, who had spent all their
days thus in semi-darkness and the shadow of death.
When King Humbert, in the course of his brave walks
though the plague-stricken city, saw the vile straits
to which the people were reduced and the manner of the
lives, he passed sentence upon the city. The words
have become a local proverb, ‘It must be
disemboweled.’ But the work thus designated in a
moment was not undertaken off-hand.
"It was no trivial
business. The years that have since passed have been
devoted to the preparation of a large, radical scheme
for the welfare of the city, a scheme which financiers,
the municipality, architects, builders, and the people
to be dispossessed of their hereditary dens have all a
profound interest. But not until last years was the seal
set formally to this great undertaking for the good of
humanity by the same king Humbert who, five years
before, had passed among the cholera victims, full of
pity for them and abhorrence of their surroundings. On
the 15th of June, 1889, Naples held universal holiday,
and amid acclamations inaugurated a new order of things.
"Doubtless, for many years to come there will be
acres of slums in Naples. Those low, cavelike rooms in
the back streets one knows so well, with a Madonna on
the wall dimly seen in the background, a big bed set on
the grimy boards underneath the Madonna, with womenfolk
and children here and there about the room working or
chattering, while the master of the habitation—a
half-asphyxiated cobbler or a sallow thin-cheeked
brassworker—sitting in the doorway, makes shoes or pots
and pans for a livelihood; these familiar scenes will
long continue to exist in Naples. But year after year
they will have to be sought with a little more effort.
At present they abound. As soon as the stranger wanders
from those principle thoroughfares—the via Roma or
theStrada del Duomo—he is likely to find himself
involved in a network of threadlike lanes, with lesser
capillaries on either side, leading by pocket squares
and spaces, penned in with tall black houses to the
filthiest of culs-de-sac. Here he will have a
surfeit of such pictures. Our London rookeries are bad
enough in all conscience, but it would be hard, even in
the vicinity of Ratcliffe highway, to find inhabited
warrens so mean and depressing as these in the heart of
the city which all the word agrees to regard as one of
the fairest of the fair. The scene painters for the
Surrey Theatre, nourished on melodrama, should journey
to Naples while yet it may profit them. They will find
no such ideal residences elsewhere for the conventional
stage villains of low life.
“We of the
north are not prone to take very seriously plans for
national and civic amelioration of which echoes reach
our ears from the south. Italy has so long been a
hotbed of abuses, a very type of monstrous decadence,
the stock equivalent for poverty. But, of course, we
argue here upon preconceived notions and prejudices.
Realities give the lie to fancies in a most emphatic
way. For all our brags of superiority in the arts,
inventive and mechanical, we in England can show few
buildings to compare with those of modern improvement
in Milan and Turin and those designed for Naples. This
rage for thoroughness may for a time prove gravely
embarrassing to the capitalists of the Peninsula and
affect the credit of the nation itself. But the nation
has little doubt the end will justify the means it has
used (perhaps a thought extravagantly) [sic] for its
aggrandizement. The Neapolitans are not a little proud
that the model houses (case economiche) will
benefit Naples more than the model houses that have
resulted from the movements of Lord Shattesbury and
Lord Cross have benefited London. The latter are
supposed to accommodate 146,809 persons, whereas new
Naples offer accommodation to 60,000 poor, over and
above the multitude of existing residents who will be
dispossessed for the moment only to be transferred to
the more commodious and wholesome new buildings.
“It is the
most ancient part of Naples that is being
‘disemboweled.’ The risanamento scheme
proposes to do for the west of the city what the
Viceroys under Spain did for the east of it. The
nucleus of the city, built over the Parthenope of the
times of Greece and Rome, will be left for the present
but little touched. This is really the very worst part
of Naples, but it must be approached gradually. The
fringe of hovels and insalubrious houses which the
Angevine and Aragonese epochs of Neapolitan history
have tacked onto this nucleus is first of all to be
mercilessly pruned away. This, too, can only be done
by degrees, for the scheme is gigantic. A broad
highway is being driven through the midst of this
unsavory neighborhood. This will be of the most modern
kind. Tall houses with balconies, stucco and stone
work, lofty rooms, and careful sanitary arrangements
will make the incongruity between it composition and
its surroundings insufferable for long. And from this
highway new byways will year by year radiate further
and further into the diseased centre. The lean and
harassed horses and bullocks, who are lashed and
goaded to transport their burdens of rubbish from this
now desperate and collapsing quarter, will not have
suffered in vain if Neapolitan energy and finance hold
out to the end.
“Overcrowding
is in Naples, as elsewhere, the source of a vast deal
of disease and immorality. There is no other such
packed city in the western world. Many causes hurried
immigrants bitter centuries ago—the break-up of the
feudal life, whereby the barons of the Apennines and
Calabria left their castles for town houses, the
privileges accorded by the Aragonese sovereigns to the
Neapolitans at the expense of the other residents in
the realm, the oppression of feudal lords and their
stewards, the greater insecurity of life and property
elsewhere, especially on the coast, then subject to
constant raids from Algeria and Turkish rovers; the
attraction of a rich court, and the ordinary
temptations of trade to vagabondizing artisans and
merchants from Florence, Genoa, and the low countries.
Thus was that unique people, the Neapolitan,
compounded. Here is a Venetian’s description of them
in 1634: ‘I go through the city, and in addition to
the countless number of artisans at their work, and
the people engaged in their houses, I see in every
street, in every byway and alley, such a crowd of
people who push me and tread on my toes, that I can
hardly make my way through the midst of them. I go
into the church where they are preaching (and they are
numerous), and find them choke full of people. I go to
the courts of justice, and it is a marvel to see the
assembly, even as the streets, (not one nor ten only,
but all,) are full of people, on foot, on horseback,
in carriages, with a murmur everywhere like the
buzzing bees, so that nothing is more difficult for me
than to get about Naples, go where I will, and at
whatever hour of the day.’ Those who know Naples may
be excused at feeling surprise at the fidelity
of this portraiture 250 years ago. So far as its tone
and manner of life are concerned, there is not a
hair’s breadth of dissimilarity between the Naples of
1634 and the Naples of 1890. The streets are more
crowded than in Carpaccio’s time, and one has to look
out for one’s toes more sharply than he. This is the
chief difference.
“A few
figures will show the extent of the actual scheme of
amelioration. It affects an area of 980,686 square,
meters. At present this includes streetway of 218,702
square meters, but under the new scheme streets will
occupy no less than 604,990 square meters of the whole
area. Breathing and moving space will thus be
increased from a percentage of 22.31 to 61.69—a very
considerable change, indeed. The density of the
population will of necessity be diminished in
proportion. Instead of, as at present, being 1,610 per
10,000 square meters, it will be 700. To show,
further, how sweeping a measure the scheme is, it may
be said that it affects 271 streets, of which 144 will
be wholly abolished and 127 broadened. Of 56
warehouses and 527 detached houses which stand in its
way, it altogether expunges 391, and interferes with
the other 136. It destroys 17,000 dwelling houses and
62 churches. It dispossesses no fewer than 7,100
landlords, 5,400 altogether, and 1,700 partially, and
turns 87,447 people out of their homes—69,198
altogether, and 18,249 temporarily. Of these last,
those definitively dishoused include 4,693 persons of
easy circumstances, 25,151 people moderately well off,
and 39,354 poor.
“For a time
the city will be in a somewhat chaotic condition, and
there can hardy fail to be a good deal of friction as
well as of dust and discomfort. The man who has grown
up in the midst of dirt and filth and gloom may be
pardoned for at first doubting the pleasantness of the
change in store for him. Though it was ever so nasty,
the particular vicolo of his nativity has
endeared itself to him as his home. The model houses,
four or five stories high, with windows looking down
upon wide streets with young trees set by the
footpath, dazzlingly luminous, and so airy that he may
fancy himself in peril of death from cold, will not
catch his fancy all at once. But patience will work
wonders even with the lazzarone benefited
against his desire. And when a few weeks or months
have passed, even the most prejudiced and debased of
Neapolitans will be forced to acknowledge that he has
little to grumble at if he gets a clean and lofty room
for a sum equivalent to 6s. a month, with the use of
the pure water of the Serino into the bargain, as a
substitute for his old quarters. The workingman with a
family may live here in ease with a suite of five
rooms and a kitchen for about 25s. a month.
“As for the cost of this
great work for the good of Naples, in all, including
compensatory payments, it is reckoned at little less
than £20,000,000. There is something heroic about its
magnitude and the spirit in which the Neapolitans face
the undertaking. It is to be devoutly hoped that the
architects and builders engaged in this regeneration
of the city may not be arrested midway by paralysis
due to want of funds.”
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