Naples:life,death &
                Miracle contact: Jeff Matthews

entry May 2003

    The House that Axel Built
            © by David Taylor
"To live in such a place as this, to die in such a place, if ever death could conquer the everlasting joy of such a life!  What daring dream had made my heart beat so violently a moment ago when Mastro Vincenzo had told me that he was getting old and tired, and that his son wanted him to sell his house? What wild thoughts had flashed through my boisterous brain when he had said that the chapel belonged to nobody? Why not to me? Why should I not buy Mastro Vincenzo's house and join the chapel and the house with garlands of vines and cypresses and columns supporting white loggias, peopled with marbled statues of gods and bronzes of emperors and...I closed my eyes, lest the beautiful vision should vanish, and gradually realities faded away into the twilight of dreamland."

The Story of San Michele by Axel Munthe, published in English by Grafton Books.

Even if we are lucky enough
to one day find ourselves standing on a spot where we know, or rather feel, that there we could happily spend the rest of our days, it is likely that this dream will remain precisely that for the thousand and one reasons that dictate that we should live elsewhere.

That Axel Munthe wrested his vision out of the realm of dream and planted it solidly on the heights of Anacapri is a fact that is there for us all to go and verify. Villa San Michele, today a complex of villa, chapel, museum, gardens, ancient ruins, nature reserve, study centre and consulate, testifies to the dogged and patient determination with which Munthe pieced together the stones, marble fragments, loggias and columns which his dream had presented to him the day when as a young medical student convalescing in Sorrento he decided to cross the straits to explore the isle of Capri.

Years were to pass as the young Swede first completed his medical studies and went on to become not only highly respected by his colleagues but also greatly in demand as a physician to high society. But during this period he never lost sight of his vision and eventually withdrew to Capri to supervise the construction of Villas San Michele on the very site where years before the spirit of the place had told him that he could build his home if he were prepared to pay the price. The price was that of renouncing fame and riches in his career as a physician. Munthe surely knew, as we know now, that it was a small price to pay. All the more so given that the fame he gained as a healer of the poor, as a lover of animals, as a writer, as a man who showed us that with determination dreams can become concrete and can be passed on to future generations, far outweighed the trinkets of fame he would have gained as a healer of the frivolous ills of the Parisian upper-classes.

Munthe bequeathed his dream to the Swedish State, placing it thereby into the hands of the Swedish Institute for Classical Studies in Rome. Under the careful management of the Axel Munthe Foundation formed to supervise the valuable patrimony, the legacy has grown both in size (now covering approximately 16 acres) and in cultural importance. Seat of the Swedish Consulate, the Villa also offers rooms for visiting scholars and every year plays host to almost 200,000 people, who flock to see the gardens, views and museum pieces that the villa offers. Outside of the high-season, the visitor can once again savour the peace and beauty of this unique spot and understand, whilst still marvelling at the man's sense of vision, why Munthe was prepared to give so much to pass his days there.

[See also Axel Munthe & Letters from a Mourning City.]

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